I never met a French fry I didn’t like. Waffle, crinkle, curly, shoestring, or steak, any “potato served in the French manner,” as Thomas Jefferson said, is welcome on my plate.
My latest crave, though, is the somewhat elusive truffle fry. Richly flavorful and much more, dare I say, sophisticated, than your everyday fries, these taters are drizzled with truffle oil, dusted with salt and parmesan cheese, and ridiculously addictive.
To satisfy a recent urge for a pile of what my husband calls “fancy pants fries,” I set out to find the best truffle fries in Westchester.
The Most Flavor
For an order of fries that will make your taste buds stand up and say “where have you been all my life,” look no further than The Barley House in Thornwood. This relatively new neighborhood gastropub sizzles them up dark and crispy with a light sprinkling of parmesan, just enough salt, and a generous dousing of truffle oil. You can’t miss the powerful flavor of these fries, but you will miss them when they’re gone. Young kids will likely turn up their collective noses (mine did) at the grown-up aroma and taste, leaving more for you to fight over with your spouse. But there’s plenty on the children’s menu, and if you sit on the patio, they’ll be wide-eyed watching trains zoom by, as you lick every last bit of salt and seasoning from your big, mature fingers. $6/order. 665 Commerce Street, Thornwood
The Crowd Pleaser
Crisp, light, airy, and moderately “truffley” is the best way to describe the truffle fries at Westchester Burger Company. With three locations throughout the county (and one in Stamford), this upscale “better burger” joint, the brainchild of self-taught chef Angelo DiFeo of West Harrison, serves them up lightly fried with an absolutely perfect sprinkling of salt, parm, and, of course, truffle oil. While these are clearly not your average fries, Chef DiFeo has a gentle hand, and the truffle flavor is understated yet totally at the table. $2.95/order. 106 Westchester Avenue, White Plains; 275 S. Ridge Street, Rye Brook; 353 N. Bedford Road, Mt. Kisco
Quietly lurking amid thin-crust pizza, pasta, and to-die-for meatballs at Polpettina in Eastchester and Larchmont is a batch of truffle fries that makes a bold statement in the most delicate, unassuming way. Great restraint with the truffle oil is shown by the kitchen, which then lets loose with ever so thinly-shaved parmesan that mystically melts into the steaming spuds. While the end result is supremely subtle, the unique taste of truffle and sharp cheese won’t go unnoticed by the discerning palette, but it just might bypass the immature tongue of hungry littles with healthy appetites. Case in point: I had to wrestle my share from the chubby fingers of my 21-month old nephew. (He won.) To put it simply: Calling these fries a side dish would be an insult—they’re an experience. And one that’s sure to be a feast for the ages. $6/order. 102 Fisher Avenue, Eastchester; 147 Larchmont Avenue, Larchmont
By Michelle Gillan Larkin, a mom and writer living in Northern Westchester